2026 | Professional

French Fashion Awards Platinum Winner

Escape from the Panopticon

Entrant

Kelsie Zhao

Category

Ready-to-Wear - Punk and Alternative Fashion

Client's Name

Country / Region

United States

The concept of the Panopticon was first proposed by Jeremy Bentham and later developed by Michel Foucault. In this circular prison structure, inmates cannot see the guards, while the guards can observe every inmate. Living under the constant threat of surveillance, prisoners begin to discipline themselves out of fear. This collection uses the Panopticon as a metaphor for an increasingly conservative and rigid society. Yet silence always breeds resistance. Like the punk movement of the 1970s, young people should never stop thinking, questioning, or challenging the status quo. We should refuse to be silenced, to drift along passively, or to surrender the possibility of making this imperfect world better. Or perhaps, we resist—if only to avoid going gently into that dark night. This collection uses clothing as a visual language of resistance, inspired by the Panopticon and punk culture. Bold silhouettes, structured forms, and material contrasts express social critique and individuality. Denim is the primary fabric, enhanced with foiling, flatbed printing, and knitting. Zippers are creatively applied to serve both functional and aesthetic purposes, enhancing structure and transformability. This collection was developed through standard fashion design processes, including sketching, pattern making, and garment construction. CLO 3D was used to visualize silhouettes and refine details before production. Techniques such as foiling, knitting, and flatbed printing were applied to enrich texture and create material contrast.

Credits

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